Incidence, line-length, power, glide, backstall, trim : all intricated

Was it Spiderman or Elvis who complained about not having the power despite high-quality lines? Don’t expect to get the best out of your kite either if its connections aren’t optimized ! Lines and bridles naturally evolve with the Dyneema’s shrinkage, but can also be intentionally modified for comfort or performance reasons. Let’s delve into these complex concepts of trim, angle of attack, backstall, and trim adjustment. By Vincent Chanderot with Donatien Roger in Glassy Vol. 1

The UPE fiber used for lines and bridles is known for its tendency to shrink, which can lead to a left-right asymmetry and a change in trim (front-to-back). While the front lines move very little due to the significant and constant load they bear, the rear lines, even those made of high-end pre-stretched Dyneema, will contract as they inflate, which can dramatically alter the wing’s angle of attack.

TRIM FOR SPEED?

Pulling the trim-setting on the front lines allows for some correction of the trim that would be affected by retracting the rear lines, but that’s not its primary function. Its main purpose is to give the kite the correct angle of attack based on the conditions and the rider’s needs.

Trim = the angle of attack decreases, in other words, the angle between the kite’s profile and the wind is reduced. The profile, almost aligned with the airflow, deflects it very little. This transmits less energy but gives the kite a higher airspeed. It will move further upwind to maintain its position. Is a kite optimized when trimmed or un-trimmed? For Nicolas Caillou (Zeeko, PLKB), a profile is obviously designed for a given angle of attack. It will then be the designer’s skill to define its position on the trim and adapt it empirically to other positions. Dom Zimmermann, at Ozone: « I don’t design kites for a given trim position, but for the entire intended range of angle of attack. So, theoretically, from 0° to 5-8° depending on the model and size…« 

Un-trim: by easing the trim setting, the angle of attack increases, and you feel more pull in the kite… up to a certain point (the point at which the airflow will stall). Un-trimming doesn’t make you go faster, it just makes it pull harder! It can be advantageous to un-trim (powerful wing) for waterstarts, but then progressively trim (fast wing) to reach top speed and the best upwind performance. Downwind, un-trimming allows you to move the wing further back in the wind window and increase drag for better downwind performance. With double pulley bars adjustable to the centimeter, racers constantly adjust the trim, just like sailors who adjust the mainsail traveler.

Note: we are talking here about trim on the fronts. With ‘displayers’ on the backs (click bar, etc.), the action is reversed.

Trim -> low incidence -> less power -> more speed

De-trim -> high incidence -> more power -> less speed

GLIDE


A kite, whether it is a foilkite or an inflatable one, looks a bit like a paraglider, whose incidence can be varied with an accelerator on the foot. By pressing the bar, we reduce the incidence and accelerate the wing by several knots, but it will cover a smaller distance. Without an accelerator, the lift of the wing is maximum and we will cover a longer distance, but less quickly. We pilots talk about « maximum glide » on the wings, a term also used in our nautical sports with or without foil. In big air, it’s exactly what the Hang time corresponds to: staying in the air longer by easing the trim at his max… which will also make the kiteloop less violent.

FOILKITES, HYBRIDS AND SINGLE_SKINS

In snowkiting, we appreciate being able to stall to flop down the wing solo, but this does not require an oversheeted setting, since it is done by pulling the rear pre-lines. A foilkite can go over your head in the gusty wind, front-stall and fall. Their performance in the wind allows them to advance further in the window edge than the tubekites and to flirt with incidences that can cause frontal closures. To avoid this phenomenon, it would theoretically be necessary to relax the trim, which increases the incidence and prevents the wing from moving forward too much, and/or to temporize by braking when the wing shoots, but that is not in practice feasible in the high range. This is where ‘reflex profiles’ find their interest. If they are less perf and manageable, because a whole flap spontaneously rises on the trailing edge, but they are more stable at very low incidences and cushion the shots. Pulling the bar at this point eliminates the reflex effect because you’re pulling on the trailing edge instead of letting it rise… Even in the case of a big shot, a sharp braking maneuver (a « temporization ») remains essential. However, if, to increase bar presence, you adjust the back lines too short to the point of constantly affecting the trailing edge, this will prevent the autopilot from engaging!

Soyez le premier à commenter

Poster un Commentaire

Votre adresse de messagerie ne sera pas publiée.


*